Got this today in the Sunday Business Post.
Food review by Ross Golden Bannon
Francesca' s a flair for food,
The quiet little restaurant in Brooks Hotel seems
an unlikely place for a feed of good nosh. Yet,
several people have mentioned it to me and a
closer inspection of a menu proudly boasting Irish artisan suppliers suggested I had been
prejudiced in my judgement.
I headed in for dinner with a foodie impresario and we found ourselves in a simple room -
certainly hotel-like, but cosy nonetheless. There were only two other tables occupied and
the piped music made you feel like a shopping cart might appear around the corner at any
moment. It didn't bode well, but our old-school waiter soon put us at ease, offering us a
choice of tables and filling glasses with water as he chatted away.
The menu reads bistro-style, and manages to balance golden-oldies with hotel staples and a
few interesting twists.
Being a Dublin restaurant, I felt its seafood chowder (€6.50) should be worth a try.
Recently the long food trail connected to processed burgers came as a surprise to many,
but just as many would be surprised at how much frozen fish our coastal capital serves -
and how far that frozen fish has travelled.
This version was served in a small bowl; a good choice as chowder is a rich dish. Although it
was super-hot, and high temperatures can often kill delicate flavours, there were plenty of
fishy notes to be found. Less chunky than I'd expected and with a restrained use of cream,
it looked like we might be off to a good start.
We'd ordered a bottle of Villa Huesgen Riesling from Mosel (€39.50), which had just the
right balance of fruit, youthful spritz and dryness for nearly all our food.
A further starter was the St Tola goat's cheese, which was served warm and came with a
slick of muted, flavoured sauce. A third element of crunchy nuts all made for a happy frame
for a quality Irish cheese. I also liked what they did to this dish when the bill came: it was
automatically included in the three-course table d'hôte menu for €29. Nice touch.
For the main course I had the pan-fried Dublin Bay prawns (€26) with colcannon and an
Irish whiskey cream sauce. The colcannon was packed with fine greens - though the mashed
potatoes had dried out a little. The sauce made for a velvety and necessary accompaniment.
Slivers of crispy bacon added a salty underpinning yet were elegantly placed so the 'bacon
and cabbage' antecedent stepped out in style. My companion had the pork belly which was a
magic dish of contrasting crispiness, sweet fat and rich flesh. Superb.
We'd dithered over side orders and decided against them in the end, but the waiter brought
a complimentary dish nonetheless. Very welcome it was, too, as the roasted carrots and
courgettes were singing with flavours.
Desserts were a little disappointing, though they read well. We passed on the Irish coffee
and hazelnut meringue (€6.95) and instead went for an Irish honey cake which came with
crème fraiche. This was an inventive use of Irish ingredients but, sadly, the sponge was dry
and firm.
This possibly might not have been a problem had the honey been heated and allowed to
soak all the way through. The steamed orange sponge suffered the same fate. It was a pity,
as there were good flavours there and these are sensible desserts for a hotel needing
dishes with a slightly longer shelf life.
The menu on the website didn't match the menu on my visit and, in trying to source it,
some cracks appeared in service ("Sorry, we're too busy to send it to you now"; that was
on the fourth phone call).
Changing menus is a good thing so a hotel should be showing this off, not guarding it like
the third secret of Fatima. Wine lists are also a selling point, and should be easily available -
rather than giving only one person access to email.
Nonetheless, Francesca's is somewhere I'll happily return to, and though there were some
missteps, the commitment to delivering well-sourced food for the most part matches the
listed artisan and quality suppliers. New service systems are needed but, as they buck the
trend in hotel food, I suspect they can deliver on this.
.........................
Breaking the bank
Starter: smoked organic Clare Island salmon pea shoots, horseradish snow €10.95
Main course: pan-fried Irish Hereford 10oz sirloin steak, garlic butter and rosemary fries
€25.50
Dessert: selection of homemade ice creams, Irish farmhouse cheeses and water biscuits
€10.50
Wine: Margaux Château La Bastide Dauzac 2004 €62.50
Dinner for two: €156.40
.....
Watching the pennies
Starter: soup of the day €5.50
Main course: homemade gnocchi with basil and sun-dried tomato and Parmesan cream €16
Dessert: Irish coffee and hazelnut meringue €6.95
Wine: Babington Brook Chardonnay €28.50
Dinner for two: €85.40
.....
Tomás Clancy rates the wine list
There are 40 wines in this medium-length list, which contains a distinct set of ten wines
offered by the glass, carafe or bottle. Pricing is disappointing, especially in relation to
Prosecco. A vast majority of restaurants come in around our benchmark €30-€32.
However, here the Masotina, Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene NV comes in at €52 a
bottle or €10.50 a glass. Other fine wines appear with reasonable prices, such as the
24/02/2013 Sunday Business Post
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excellent Villa Huesgen 'By the Glass', Riesling, Mosel, 2010 at €38.50 a bottle; €26.50 for
the 500ml carafe and €9 a glass.
Our white wine value for quality pick is the One Tree Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New
Zealand 2007 at €36, and our red pick is the medium bodied, spicy Domaine des Espiers,
AC Cotes du Rhone 2010 at €33.50. A competent, well designed and functional list.
Rating: 2½/5